Saigon

Vendor selling dried squid on Backpackers Row

Saigon is the original name of the capital city of Vietnam; the communist government decided to rename it Ho Chi Mihn City. Although still referred to as Saigon by many local Vietnamese, Ho Chi Mihn is the official name, and if speaking with any government official definitely what you call the city.  A classic big city with the classic hustle and bustle, we were not thrilled to be out of our little small towns and back to the big city world. We were staying in what is referred to as backpackers row, a street which is lined with hotels, massage  parlors and nail salons, restaurants and holes in the wall offering beer. Just before dusk, when the edge of the sun and it's sticky heat has ducked behind the building, it seems like every tourist starts crawling out from the shade and air conditioned hotels and hostels. They gather to sit on small plastic chairs (ones that are sold at Toys 'R Us in a north America), and have a beer. As the night progresses the chairs and tourists begin to multiply and spill out onto the street. It is a great place to sit down, enjoy an icy cold beer that is luke-warm in 10 minutes and people watch. As for the rest of the day, get the hell out of dodge is pretty adept, unless you want to be hassled all day by hawkers selling Ray Bands, books, hammocks, cigarette,fans, or any other random item. 

Who needs a truck when you have a scooter?

Vietnam is a country of 88 million people, increasing every year by 1 million people. Within this country there are 34 million motor-scooters. A very very small percentage of the population is able to afford cars and the tax on a foreign car ranges from 100-200% depending on the make and cost of the car. It was explained that the communist government ensures that taxes remain exceedingly high on cars to help keep the percentage of the population who can buy cars very low. The argument was that the road system remains poor (this I can attest to), and most highways outside of the cities have speed limits topped out at 45-50km/hr, therefore could not handle a large percentage of the population owning cars. The motor scoote has become the number one vehicle of choice and is used for everything from transferring loads of pigs, long sticks of bamboo, (our favorite a queen sizes mattress strapped to the back), or a family of 4 to 5.

In Saigon we saw tourist after tourist who had tied their luck at the motor-scooter and lost to the pavement. As proficient and amazing of a motor-scooter driver I feel I have become in a few short days, I would not dare to try my luck in one of the big cities! Also I've come to understand that a great many people also have received their permanent memory scars in Thailand, where drinking and scooting are not often punishable to the average tourist. 

The driving system typically works like this from low to high: pedestrian, pedal bike, scooter, car, bus/large truck ect. To cross a street in Vietnam you just step out into oncoming traffic (remember max speeds on the highway is 45-50, cities about 15-30km) and slowly proceed into traffic. Scooters will weave around you gracefully as long as you give them a moment to adjust around you, car and buses the pedestrian yields to. Slowly but surely continue crossing, not stopping unless a car or bus is headed in your direction. Also look both ways as there are no street sides really and anyone can w
switch direction at any time. 

When driving, at first the system appears totally ludicrous, although there are divided lanes, and oncoming lines, this really heeds no interest to drivers. There are no lanes, for cars or motor-scooters alike. Instead a short honk means "I'm coming", and the only thing you must watch for is the vehicles ahead of you. There is no shoulder checking here, instead you just cut off the person behind you, it is their responsibility to watch out for you and break or move for you. In the end people kind of flow around each other and together like water, although to the outsider it appears like a conglomerated mess.

Tunnel opening

How to close and hide the entrance

Outside of Saigon we visited the Cu Chi tunnels, remenants of the Vietnam war. Here you can see a series of underground tunnels that stretched for a total of 200km that allowed the Vietnamese guerrilla fighters and their families escape from the bombings of their homes, and then ambush American soldiers. Our tour guide, Jackie, was a local Vietnamese man who fought with the US navy for 6 years, then faced 3 years in prison after the war. He said he loved prison. When we asked why, he said "Because no one was trying to kill me anymore". He was spectacularly interesting and promised to tell us more about his time in the war, and what he thought and felt about the Vietnam war as an ex-solider. Sadly as we got back on the bus a group of German and Dutch people started talking making it quite loud on the bus. Jackie never stood up and shared his insight with us. Tamara and I were on the back of the full bus so could not even ask him questions or try to initiate a conversation with him. I also felt it may be rude to scream shut up at the talkig people.  So far this is my absolute bigger regret of the trip. I think he would be extremely  interesting to talk to.

Jackie, the tour guide

The tunnels themselves were interesting, but I was shocked at the propaganda movie at the beginning of the tour which was made in 1966 and referred to the US as " those crazy American devils". They showed the booby-ttraps the villagers turned guerrillas laid for the American soldiers as they did not have access to many guns of weapons except that which they took from the Americans. The booby traps were viscous and cruel. Like bear traps many were designed to capture a soldiers, but not kill him, and surrounding those traps were more to kill or severely  injure those who came to help the trapped solider. 

Also while in Saigon we visited the War remnants museum, another form of huge propaganda for the Vietnamese government, and against the US. I will not comment of whether the Americans should have gotten involved with that war, I know far too little of the details to make any type of judgement, but I will say the horror inflicted upon each enter, both by the Vietnamese and definitelty by the US was absolutely appalling. Seeing pictures of the victims of napalm and agent orange was more than disturbing and reminded me how far removed from war I am blessed to be.

Inside the tunnles

US tank, remains at the site it was destroyed by a land-mine

Tamara and I out to dinner on Backpackers Row