Phnom Penh and Mr Bombastic

Palace Grounds

Tuk Tuk

We arrived in Phnom Penh as promised in the early afternoon. We took a tuk-tuk, Tamara's first tuk-tuk experience to the hotel. In both Cambodia and Thailand tuk-tuks are the major form of tourist and local transportation in lieu of a taxi. Taxis especially in Cambodia are few and far between, and much more expensive. A tuk-tuk is a motorcycle which has a canopied 2 to 4 person 2- wheeled carriage attached to the back of it. In Thailand they are a little different, as the motorcycle is actually built into the carriage. Same-Same, but different. The picture here is one I downloaded off the internet and it a Cambodian tuk-tuk.
We checked into our hotel, and set out exploring our surroundings after a much needed lunch and icy cold beer... or two. We realized through our wanderings that our hotel was wonderfully centrally located with the mighty Mekong River less than a block away, the Palace grounds for the Royal Family, a large Buddhist temple, the national museum and a local market all within close walking distance. Sadly we discovered most things were closed by the time we got to them. A good scouting expedition all in all.
We walked towards the Palace to observe from the outside, and in front of it was a large park. In the background of the above picture is part of the Palace grounds behind the peach wall, and the large green space outside of the temple. This green space is home to a  couple hundred pigeons who hang about waiting for families with young children to buy corn kernels to feed to the pigeons. The young toddlers love throwing the corn and watching the birds gather, only to go careening through the flock, scattering them to the air. Children of the poor locals entice tourists and the young local families to buy their small bags of corn kernels, and if their selling pitch of picture opportunities or fun for the kids does not work, plain old badgering seems to be the next trick.

Many local beggars or poor will use their children to sell the souvenir wears, as it is harder to say no to a barefooted scruffy child then an adult. Most children by the age of 4 seem to be able to count to 10 in a multitude of languages, and know the routine of bartering like a champ. They are determined following you and harrassing (and I do not use the term lightly) to buy something, and no amount of no thank yous, firm No's or ignoring them will stop the onslaught. They tug on your arm, run around and stop directly in front of you, and follow you until you are often quite far from where you started, or are driving away in your tuk-tuk get away car. At times it seems easier to pay the dollar they request and move on, but in every book, travel guide, travel agency or NGO, they advise strictly against this as it instead encourages the behavior and promotes the exploitation of children, who should instead be in bed at home, or in school.
Another local trick is to have 2 small children hold a baby, with an empty bottle in its mouth. They will ask you to buy milk formula of the baby insisting that they are not asking you for money. The first thing to note, after you ask yourself where the hell is the parents of these three very young children, how does a child of 4-10 know this much English that they can hold such a knowledgeable conversation with you. These children are often found at night on the street corners of the tourist areas. They assure you that they only want the milk for the sleeping baby in their arms, and they cannot sell the milk back to the stores as the police will catch them and arrest them. The rehearsed skit is painful to see and you curse yourself as you walk away and insist that no, you will not help them feed their baby sibling. But of course I will point out two things here, first breast milk is freely provided by the mother. And it is a well known fact that they sell the unopened formula back to the store, or often have an arrangement with the store to split the money. Sadly the use of children in begging practices is very common here.

Continuing from my tangent, back to the Palace, it was on our way to see the palace and the birds that we first met Mr. Bombastic. He was to become our new friend in Phnom Penh. A 24 year old tuk-tuk driver, with a flat brimmed white base ball cap, with fake small little diamonds outlining the 2 in the number 24 on the cap. A mess of tight curly hair pushed out from the side of the cap, that when out of the cap stood up in Afro form.  A huge smile, neon yellow sleeveless shirt, and a skull overshadowing a lightening bold tattoo on his shoulder, he attached himself to Tamara and they wheeled and dealed a price for him to take us to the killing fields and Tol Sleng, the genocide museum the next morning. He had  a bright yellow tuk-tuk with a picture of a DJ table and the words Mr. Bombastic beneath on the corner of his tuk-tuk. The back read in big black capital letters "No Money    No Honey". He was a riot to start.
The next morning bright and early as promised Mr Bombastic arrived at our hotel to take us to Tuol Sleng, the genocide museum. Prior to owning his own tuk-tuk he used to work as a tour guide and agreed to take us through the museum. The genocide museum is an old high school that during the time of the Khmer Rouge, was used as an interrogation prison to torture "confessions"out of the prisoners. Through this one prison 12,000 people were, cataloged, tortured, imprisoned and if they did not die at the hands of their tortures, were shipped to the killing fields outside of the city. One unlucky Australian man somehow found himself at Tol Sleng. He "confessed" to being KGB-CIA spy. I would like to point out the irony of being both KGB and CIA in the 1970's  in the midst of the Cold War.
The prison has been left exactly the same as it  was in 1979, when it was raided by the Vietnam army. They have only removed the 14 bodies of the people who were left in the prison, who have been buried in the court yard. Of the 12,000 people seen in Tuol Sleng, 7 survived. I will not go into the horrors that were seen or inflicted here, but it was a terrible place. 2 of the survivors were at the prison, selling books of their life stories. Tamara and I each bought a book. I sat with a man who had been saved because he was able to fix typewriters that the tortures used to record the confessions of prisoners. It was sobering meeting these men, and after buying a book they asked us to sit and take a picture with them. It seemed wrong to smile. In the picture I have with this man we are both looking into the camera with a blank stare. I am honored to have met him, but I could not smile at his reason of being there.

Survivor of Tuol Sleng

After the Genocide museum we went to the Killing Fields, one of many such places where in 4 years the Khmer Rouge killed millions of people. IT was a very very difficult and sad day. To see the horrors and atrocities people will inflict on each other out of fear, hate, or propaganda from a psychotic leader is astounding and sobering.
After we left both the genocide museum, and the Killing Fields, Mr Bombastic helped us in our despair by blasting rap, hip-hop and club-pop music through the speakers he had wired into his tuk-tuk and a cable he used from his iPod that was charged from somewhere in the  bike. I believe he spliced into the wiring to his headlights to wire his iPod and speakers. You could not help but come out of the doom and gloom with the music blaring, him weaving in and out of traffic, and singing and dancing on the front of his motorcycle.
After our depressing morning, Tamara took a nap to escape the escalating heat and I went and wandered through the Palace grounds and into the Buddhist temple we had passed the day before. The Palace Grounds were stunning, but a large part of the grounds were closed as the King, (who truly abdicated the throne in 2004, and son is now the King)  had died a week or so prior. I don't believe the family actually resides on the grounds, instead is an area that is used for ceremonies and such.

May I introduce Mr Bombastic

I went and met back with Tamara. That day was March 17th St. Patrick's day (and my sister-in-laws birthday), and we had found Rice Paddies, and Irish pub that we were going to have some beers and and celebrate the holiday. We invited our entertaining friend Mr  Bombastic along telling him drinks were on us for his help and cheerful attitude. We met and Rice Paddies and happily they were selling green beer and had a line up of 3 bands to play and entertain that night. We had a wonderful time, and even when the power went out for about 20 minutes (they have rolling blackouts occasionally, happily they are short) the singer of the band picked up his acoustic guitar and started belting out some  Tom Petty. It was a great night. We introduced Mr Bombastic to green beer and St. Patrick's day and had a wonderful time.

He told us his life story: He was orphaned when his parents died in a car crash a few years ago. His family house and estate went to his uncle as he and his 2 younger siblings were too young to hold titles or that type of responsibility. I am not sure exactly what happened but they ended up in an orphanage and he worked to support his two  younger siblings after dropping out of high school. At some point he began working as a tour guide, and as his siblings became independent moved to Phnom Penh. He worked as a tour guide saving his money until he could afford to buy his own tuk-tuk. He now chooses his own hours of work, lives between 3 houses of friends who let him crash, and parties like he is 24 going on 18! He was great fun and we called it a night around 10 o'clock as we had met him early at about 5:30. We are two old ladies and are typically in bed at 9:30. (I say old here lightly!) Bombastic had met up with a friend and we left them $10 to continue the night. With beers at $2.50 they had a couple rounds left to go.

Tamara and Mr Bombastic

At Rice Paddies with Green Beer

The next morning we had a 10am flight to catch. We had arranged with Bombastic to come and take us to the airport.... he sent a friend as he was too drunk still to pick us up.
We hope to see our little character friend again when we transfer back to Phnom Penh before we start our long journey home next week. Hopefully he will be  able to meet us, but if not, he is kind enough to send reliable back up!


I have heard feedback for want of photos. As it is now I am unable to upload pictures, but when I get home I will come back and attach a few photos so you can have a visual of what I am talking about.
Thanks so much for reading. I love to hear that friends and family are enjoying my adventures.

Local Nun who was very sweet and kind to me

Mekong Delta into Phnom Penh

Rising Sun on the Mekong River

From Vietnam there are a few options to travel to Cambodia. We were traveling from Saigon to Phnom Penh. A full day bus, 1.5 hour flight were options, but we decided to take the interesting route through the Mekong Delta and transfer into the new country by boat. It was promised to be a 2 day adventure, stopping at floating villages,  a local rice mill where they demonstrate how they make rice paper, popped rice (like a cross between pop-corn and rice crispies) coconut candies, and many other local specialties and treats; as well as a crocodile farm and a lunch stop for day one.  The second day promised another day on the boat, this being a fast boat that would get you in nice and early in the afternoon to Phnom Penh.... All for the amazing price of $25, this also included assistance at the border, and one night lodging in a double fan room! We ensured air conditioning was available since daily temperatures had been hovering in the low to mid 30's (mid80's-90's).

Rice paper drying on woven bamboo sheets

Well if  somewhere you have thought to yourself: "this is too good to be true!", you are correct. Go with that first instinct, as very little followed what was promised. A favorite saying here and in Thailand "Same-Same, but different". Our trip was same as listed, but also VERY different.
We boarded an early bus only to be shoved off shortly thereafter boarding. Not usually an issue until you are lugging around 2 heavy, awkward backpacks, and everyone else from the bus and 15 other buses are having to make the same confusing, unorganized switch to a new bus.  Happily we arrived to our new bus, stowed our bags and assumed we would use this bus to transfer to our boat somewhere outside of town. 3 long and cramped hours later, with a bus so full to the brim that the guide sat in a lawn chair and bags blocked the isles, we arrived at the boats. We happily unbounded and were told not to worry about our bags, as there were still 3 different group itineraries on the bus ( some going to Cambodia, some spending 2 nights on the Mekong, some returning to Saigon that night), we would arrange our bags after lunch.

Seeing the tissue thin rice paper being made like a crepe was interesting, but the rest of the hour was a false factory for the sake of tourists, looking to sell snacks and candies to tourists. We of course fell for the buy 5 get one free deal....

Floating Market - you can slightly see the pole off the green tarp boat with bananas

The one interesting thing we did do was boat through the floating market.This market it is not for the tourists, we are just distant observers who do not interfere with the local life in this sense. The farmers or locals live in stilted houses about 5-10 feet off the river; islands of these stilled houses dot around the Mekong. The locals of this area live part of their time on land, part time on their boats. When they have a load of fruit, vegetables, plants, or whatever else they may sell they load the product onto their boat and go to the market area. On long bamboo poles about 15 feet tall, they will tie the item they are selling to the end and fly it like a flag. This allows the other "shoppers" to know what each boat has to offer. They will then tie their boats together to trade their goods, trading in large quantities of 5-10kg per bag. It is like the Costco of the Mekong. The local farmer or family will live on the boat, not returning to their dry land home until all the goods are sold. Cooking, cleaning washing, and sleeping all done on the boat.

Dishes and laundry on the boat

Next was off to lunch. Suddenly the tour guide jumped up and had everyone come immediately together front of the boat, shortly there after we heard the scraping of the propeller catching bottom of the river. We quickly off loaded to land and found a bike rack with bikes that were so rusted I thought it may disintegrate in my hands. Although I am usually up for adventure, this little detail of biking through the rural roads was not mentioned in the tour, and with the 33 (95 F) degree heat, the boat  sounded much better. It was not a matter of the river being to shallow, but that this is the only (surprise) way to the restaurant. The 71 year old lady who was on the tour with us was less than impressed.  Happily she did quite well on the bike, and they 22 year Russian girl who stated she didn't know how to ride a bike got a motorbike ride to the restaurant. Why this was not an option for the 71 year old I am not sure!

Houses on the Mekong in Floating Market Village

After a lack luster lunch, another hot bike ride back to the boat and a boat ride back to the dock we had spent approximately 2 hours off the bus. Next we were told to load up for the 5 hour bus ride to the border town Chao Doc. Tamara and I had briefly looked at booking a bus to Chao Doc (5-6 hr bus ride) to which you can from Chao Doc switch to a fast boat and head into Phnom Penh. However we though the 2 days on a boat, no time in a bus was more our style. Instead we were tricked to 9 hours on the bus on the first day and a 2 hour boat ride.  We felt duped!

However the next day was exactly what we had expected. We loaded from the hotel onto a boat which with one tourist pit stop took us directly to Phnom Phen, with the easiest border crossing ever as the guide did everything. We were a little reluctant about the border crossing as we had heard it can be notoriously difficult, with many attempts to extort extra fees, or items to be stolen by thieves why you are distracted by the border guards. Instead our belongings stayed on the boat, and all payment and paperwork was dealt with by the guide. That in itself was worth the $25!
We happily arrived in Phnom Penh late afternoon and checked into our hotel.

Rice Barge 

Side Note: I realize there are often spelling mistakes or grammatical errors in my blog posts. I apologize. I am often typing on the ipad, and with a lack of a keyboard, and the ipad's at times more than helpful auto-correct, it can sometimes be challenging to pick up and review my errors.  I promise I have a good understanding of the English language, and did complete all of my education in regards to spelling and grammar. Thank you for understanding and stumbling through my often jumbled thoughts.

Saigon

Vendor selling dried squid on Backpackers Row

Saigon is the original name of the capital city of Vietnam; the communist government decided to rename it Ho Chi Mihn City. Although still referred to as Saigon by many local Vietnamese, Ho Chi Mihn is the official name, and if speaking with any government official definitely what you call the city.  A classic big city with the classic hustle and bustle, we were not thrilled to be out of our little small towns and back to the big city world. We were staying in what is referred to as backpackers row, a street which is lined with hotels, massage  parlors and nail salons, restaurants and holes in the wall offering beer. Just before dusk, when the edge of the sun and it's sticky heat has ducked behind the building, it seems like every tourist starts crawling out from the shade and air conditioned hotels and hostels. They gather to sit on small plastic chairs (ones that are sold at Toys 'R Us in a north America), and have a beer. As the night progresses the chairs and tourists begin to multiply and spill out onto the street. It is a great place to sit down, enjoy an icy cold beer that is luke-warm in 10 minutes and people watch. As for the rest of the day, get the hell out of dodge is pretty adept, unless you want to be hassled all day by hawkers selling Ray Bands, books, hammocks, cigarette,fans, or any other random item. 

Who needs a truck when you have a scooter?

Vietnam is a country of 88 million people, increasing every year by 1 million people. Within this country there are 34 million motor-scooters. A very very small percentage of the population is able to afford cars and the tax on a foreign car ranges from 100-200% depending on the make and cost of the car. It was explained that the communist government ensures that taxes remain exceedingly high on cars to help keep the percentage of the population who can buy cars very low. The argument was that the road system remains poor (this I can attest to), and most highways outside of the cities have speed limits topped out at 45-50km/hr, therefore could not handle a large percentage of the population owning cars. The motor scoote has become the number one vehicle of choice and is used for everything from transferring loads of pigs, long sticks of bamboo, (our favorite a queen sizes mattress strapped to the back), or a family of 4 to 5.

In Saigon we saw tourist after tourist who had tied their luck at the motor-scooter and lost to the pavement. As proficient and amazing of a motor-scooter driver I feel I have become in a few short days, I would not dare to try my luck in one of the big cities! Also I've come to understand that a great many people also have received their permanent memory scars in Thailand, where drinking and scooting are not often punishable to the average tourist. 

The driving system typically works like this from low to high: pedestrian, pedal bike, scooter, car, bus/large truck ect. To cross a street in Vietnam you just step out into oncoming traffic (remember max speeds on the highway is 45-50, cities about 15-30km) and slowly proceed into traffic. Scooters will weave around you gracefully as long as you give them a moment to adjust around you, car and buses the pedestrian yields to. Slowly but surely continue crossing, not stopping unless a car or bus is headed in your direction. Also look both ways as there are no street sides really and anyone can w
switch direction at any time. 

When driving, at first the system appears totally ludicrous, although there are divided lanes, and oncoming lines, this really heeds no interest to drivers. There are no lanes, for cars or motor-scooters alike. Instead a short honk means "I'm coming", and the only thing you must watch for is the vehicles ahead of you. There is no shoulder checking here, instead you just cut off the person behind you, it is their responsibility to watch out for you and break or move for you. In the end people kind of flow around each other and together like water, although to the outsider it appears like a conglomerated mess.

Tunnel opening

How to close and hide the entrance

Outside of Saigon we visited the Cu Chi tunnels, remenants of the Vietnam war. Here you can see a series of underground tunnels that stretched for a total of 200km that allowed the Vietnamese guerrilla fighters and their families escape from the bombings of their homes, and then ambush American soldiers. Our tour guide, Jackie, was a local Vietnamese man who fought with the US navy for 6 years, then faced 3 years in prison after the war. He said he loved prison. When we asked why, he said "Because no one was trying to kill me anymore". He was spectacularly interesting and promised to tell us more about his time in the war, and what he thought and felt about the Vietnam war as an ex-solider. Sadly as we got back on the bus a group of German and Dutch people started talking making it quite loud on the bus. Jackie never stood up and shared his insight with us. Tamara and I were on the back of the full bus so could not even ask him questions or try to initiate a conversation with him. I also felt it may be rude to scream shut up at the talkig people.  So far this is my absolute bigger regret of the trip. I think he would be extremely  interesting to talk to.

Jackie, the tour guide

The tunnels themselves were interesting, but I was shocked at the propaganda movie at the beginning of the tour which was made in 1966 and referred to the US as " those crazy American devils". They showed the booby-ttraps the villagers turned guerrillas laid for the American soldiers as they did not have access to many guns of weapons except that which they took from the Americans. The booby traps were viscous and cruel. Like bear traps many were designed to capture a soldiers, but not kill him, and surrounding those traps were more to kill or severely  injure those who came to help the trapped solider. 

Also while in Saigon we visited the War remnants museum, another form of huge propaganda for the Vietnamese government, and against the US. I will not comment of whether the Americans should have gotten involved with that war, I know far too little of the details to make any type of judgement, but I will say the horror inflicted upon each enter, both by the Vietnamese and definitelty by the US was absolutely appalling. Seeing pictures of the victims of napalm and agent orange was more than disturbing and reminded me how far removed from war I am blessed to be.

Inside the tunnles

US tank, remains at the site it was destroyed by a land-mine

Tamara and I out to dinner on Backpackers Row

Hoi An

From Sapa in the far north of the counrty, our next stop was Hoi An, a city resting on the central coast of Vietenam. To get here we left again on the night train which brought us back to Hanoi, arriving bright and early at 4:30am. We headed to the airport as we didn't know what else to do on the streets of Vietnam at that time that would not lead to potential trouble. Our flight was scheduled for 9:55am so we had some time to kill. Snuggled up on some metal seats, our big backpacks as pillows and our smaller ones cuddled protectively in our arms we took the true backpacker stance and slept a few hours. After paying am extobanent amount for 2 coffees ($5) we decided to check in and head south for some sun.

Although a typical tourist hotspot, especially for backpackers we were happy to get into some heat, and away from the big cities! Tam and I are in agreement that we prefer small towns for big cities. I like rural local areas off the beaten path and Tam loves somewhere she can escape the blazing sun and jump into the water of a beach or pool.

Farmer in the Rice Paddies

Hoi An offered a little of both. If you we willing to rent a motorbike/scooter hybrid and wander down some of the rickity roads you could easily get lost amongst the rural stick houses and rice paddies. There was also a long stretch of beach that was about a 20 minute bicycle ride outside of the town. So arriving early enough in the day we donned bathing suits, rented a bicycle for a dollar a day, and started peddling. Now I should note, these bicycles are not a lovely mountain bike to help you steer through the pothole pocked streets, or navigate the sandy gullies on either side when passing busses or motorbikes come honking along. Nope, these are 1 gear bikes with breaks that either stick threatening to throw you over the handlebars, or  virtually no breaks at all leaving you wondering if you'll just drag your heels Fred Flinstone style, or hope that there is a soft rice paddie to launch into if need be. We took our rickity bikes to the beach stopping at a coffee and sandwich stop run by an Australian woman that had such amazing sandwiches and food we came back at least once if not twice a day for the rest of our trip in Hoi An. 

Rice Field

The beaches of Hoi An were a nice reprieve from Sapa, where we had spent out last night huddled under our electric blankets with a fire in our in room fireplace.

Hoi An is also known as the spot to go to have clothes made. The next morning after our day on the beach, we headed into the downtown, apparently the epicenter of custom tailors. Every other store was a tailor shop, and between those were shoe stores that promised to make you any shoe you could dream of, custom made to your foot. I had died and found heaven in Hoi An. At the end of a short 3 days I had procured 2 blazer jackets, 4 dresses, 2 pairs of sandals, and a pair of custom leather boots; much to the dismay of my backpack, or my shoulders when I put that same backpack on.

Fishing Boats

After our morning of shopping and fittings and SPENDING, we rented the motorbike/scooter hybrid, stopped at our local lunch spot and then headed out to the local beach. We had previously gone to the tourist beach, cropped full of other tourists, locals selling trays full of souvineres, lounge chairs and big palm covered umbrellas, wave-runner rentals, and tourist after tourist lining up to go parasailing. 

Looking to escape, we took our motorscooters further down the road to the local beach. Here they still had the beach chairs for rent, or free if you purchased food or drink from one of the local restaurants, but free from the wave runners and gimmicks. Instead fishermen sat in bowl shaped boats fixing and seeing their fishing nets from beneath the shade offered by a piece of plastic tarp cut and posted to a bamboo pole. 

2 days was spent alternating between our lunch spot, the local beach, and wandering the towns streets at night. We took the motor bikes one day to some of the off road alleyways and dirt paths throughout the local area, in the rural area away from the town, weaving through rice paddies, dogs and chickens wandering the streets, trying to dodge gaping potholes or locals weaving on their motorcycles much more adeptly than us. 

Chinese Lanterns

Hoi an is also known for the Chinese laterns that line the streets of the old quarter, and every full moon all artificial light is shut off and all the shops light candles in their lanterns. They then go to the river and set floating paper lanterns in the water to float gently down lazy river. Sadly we arrived jut before the new moon. In the old quarter the shops and streets are filled with lanters, but they are lit by light bulbs, and tourists can purchase the floating lanters to set into the river for themselves, but I imagine it is not quite the same. It is actually against the law on the full moon to have artificial light lit in the old quarter. The streets in this same area are blocked from cars and motorbikes making it much easier to walk about without feeling any moment you may be run over by some crazy local, or more likely  an unaware tourist.

Bridge over river at night

On our last night we rented bicycles as we had to return our motor-scooters. I felt more unsafe and more nervous about the streets on a "safe" pedal bike than I did on a motor-scooter, I am sure much to the dismay of my parents. Happily we made it safely from dinner back to the hotel. The next day, full of clothes and Chinese lanterns (because they were such a good deal!!!.........)  we headed southwest to Ho Chi Minh City, aka Saigon.

Local Fisherman fixing his net

Tourist Parisailing

Sapa

From Halong Bay we traveled north to Sapa, a small town in the heart of the mountains in northern Vietnam, close to the border with China. Sapa originally was a small market town which was used as a meeting place for the rural tribes that live in the surrounding mountains. It has now grown to a tourist town, used as a jumping off point for treks, overnight stays in near-by villages, Eco-tourism (which is not so eco in Vietnam), and mountain biking though the passes.
After an interesting experience on the night train, sleeping in a 4 person "soft-sleeper" room with a mattress which was about an inch thick and a blanket slightly damp from the humidity in the room, we were jostled north. We arrived bright and early and after a slight bus break down (forgot to put gas in the tank) we arrived happily and tiredly to our hotel. After a nap to catch up on the sleep we did not have, we rented scooters to check out the surrounding mountains. Tamara and I had both ridden scooters in the past, but as it was for both of us greater than 5 years ago we thought a lesson may be helpful before navigating the twisting streets out of the quite little town. Also I didn't want to run down a tourist wandering through the streets!
After a quick stint of finding my balance, remembering how to turn, and figureing out how to start the bike with breaks on, and just a little gas to the thing didn't go shooting off (very important lesson!), we were off.
Once out of the town I felt much more comfortable and even got the scooter up to a whopping 15km/hr! We were speeding away. Ha ha. It took a bit of time for us to develop some confidence , but the uphill long sweeping turns into the mountains to pass by the rural towns and terraced slopes were a good place to work on that confidence.

The mountains around Sapa are terraced, much like those of Peru and Machu Picchu. Up and down the slopes were broad flat steps that during the late spring and summer months are vibrantly green with the rice paddies. Water buffalo help to work the ground and during their off season roam through the mountains grazing. We were in the off season, so although lush with weeds, it was not quite the same appearance. Beautiful all the same.
We scooted up the mountains to arrive at the Silver waterfall, then further into the mountains to find the pass. Unfortunately the pass wasn't quite so magnificent to see as the valley too like Hanoi and Halong Bay was filled with smog.
I first believed the smog to be caused but Hanoi's large populating squeezed into such a small city, however the mountains should have been devoid of that pollution.  I know think it is pushed south from China, settles on the northern lip of Vietnam, further assisted by some of the larger cities such as Hanoi.

Shu and Ta

After the pass we returned back to town, as we had not quite dressed appropriately not accounting for the cool mountain wind that is intensified while on a scooter. While wandering through the market place and looking for  lunch spot we met Shu,  a local village woman who offered to take us to her village the next day and show us the mountains and the villages. She would take us to her home and cook us a traditional lunch before taking us to 2 other villages and then arrange for a motor-taxi back to Sapa. She asked us for $20 for the excursion. The hotels and tour agencies charged $30-40 per person, and the lunch was had in a restaurant serving "fast food", within the local village. I was more than happy to pay a local the money rather than the hotel or tour agency. We arranged our meeting for the next morning.
After lunch that came with the show of a dump truck backing up into a guy on a scooter (guy jumped off, his scooter didn't make it), we had a good tour of the small town wandering its streets and back alleys. Next was a one hour back and neck massage to work off the knots in our shoulders from slumping around 25lbs bags, and a fresh coat of nail polish for a whopping $3 per person.
The Vietnam Dong as it is called has allowed Tamara and I to become fast millionaires. 1 Canadian dollar buys you 20,000 Dong. I regularly take out $5 million from my bank account, making me feel like a high roller. ($5 million equals $253 CND)
The dollar takes you far here, with most meals costing approximately $3 dollars and a 450ml beer is 75cents!!! We are enjoying our millionaire-ness.
The nights were cold in Sapa, and our light jackets and cardigans were not cutting the cold. The only hotel that has central heating costs $180 per night. Happily our $35 per night hotel came with electric blankets and a fire place! We snuggled down into our heated beds, started a fire, and decided we loved our hotel.

Water Buffalo

The next morning we met Shu, and her friend Ta who escorted us through the 3 hour journey down the mountains into the valley towards Shu's home village of  Loi Chau. We picked our way down the mountain side along the trail the locals use( rather than the road like the other tours), and spoke to our host. She taught herself English by speaking with tourists at the market place in town. Many women from the local villages walk 2 to 3 hours in the early morning to be in Sapa by about 9 am. There they wander the town streets and talk to the visitors practicing their English and trying to sell their crafts of weaved purses, pillow cases, bracelets or silver and gold jewelry. Shu had taught herself English in this way and now as her English is fluent enough she can host visitors to her home and entertain. She told us about how they take the plants that they grown and harvest to use as dyes for their clothes, and weave and cook the grasses they weave into the fabric for their clothes. At 30, Shu had 3 children and had been married 10 years after a 2 year courtship with her husband. She had lived in a village that was a 1and a half day walk from Sapa, and a days walk from her husbands village. They had met in the festivities surrounding the new year, where the locals dress in their new clothes and walk along the paths of the villages towards Sapa. They dated over two years talking only when they met on the paths. She says now it is easier for the villagers to meet and date as cell phones allow the couple to call and text one another. She explained that it was normal for the locals to marry young, her brother was only 12 when he married, and many marry around 15-18. The government provides elementary school, and a bit of middle school, however most have to travel into Sapa after elementary school if they wish to continue their education.

Lunch

Ta making us a gift

By the time we arrived at Shus home we were starving. We were offered fresh sugar cane to chew while we waited. Sugar cane looks like bamboo, and when you peel it offers a fibrous flesh that you bite off and chew for the sweet juices, you then spit out the fibrous left overs. We had a HUGE lunch and claiming that we were vegetarian were filled to the brim with fresh vegetables cooked over an open flame.
Tamara and I had an amazing time with Shu, she was wonderful and friendly. She joked and teased us and taught us a lot about the local culture, while we explained why we remained unmarried and without children at our very advanced age.
We returned to town thoroughly enjoying our experience and do not think it could have been any better than if we had tried to do it ourselves, or though a travel agency.
A night train returned us to Hanoi, and after another jostled sleep we caught a flight to Hoi An.

Ta's Gift

Shu, Me and Ta. Dressed in local clothing

Shu, caught this picture as she was re-doing her hair. She has only cut her hair once in her life. At 1 year of age it is custom in some cultures to shave the child's head to signify they have survived the most difficult time in a child's life. A high percentage of children in most second and third world countries do not make it to their first birthday. 

Halong Bay

March1-6

Tamara, on our bench in Seattle

I will go back to the beginning off our journey.Tam and I left Feb 27th starting our day at 0300 to catch an early morning flight to Seattle. Arriving at 7:30 with a 5 hour layover we found 3 benches in the international departures terminals and pushed them together to make a bed. After a lovely 3 hour sleep, we felt ready and refreshed to begin the rest of our 25 hour journey.... We flew from Seattle to Tokyo, an 11 hour flight that regardless of 2 meals, free alcohol, and an upgraded seat to "Economy Comfort" which gives a bit more leg room and a better recline, I was still ready to crawl out of my skin by the end of the flight. Sadly after a 30 minute layover in Tokyo,where were tried to stretch out our muscles and check one another for DVTs (blood Clots in our legs) we boarded with some despair our 8 hour flight to Bangkok, Thailand.  The plane could not land soon enough as by this time, over-tired and cramped, I was contemplating jumping out an emergency exit. 

A quick 12 hour layover in Bangkok, we paid a whopping $17 for a hotel with free transfer to and from the airport. It provided much needed hot showers, comfortable beds, and air conditioning as when we landed at midnight the temperature was 28 degrees Celsius, with 99% humidity! 

The next afternoon we flew to Hanoi in Northern Vietnam. That is where we met and stayed with Tams friends David and Nancy and their 4 children.

My favorite part of Hanoi was with help of our local friends finding the local markets and getting away from the tourists traps. We visited two of the local market, and I was both horrified and totally intrigued to find dog for sale.  The carcass is somehow de-fured, ears cropped, feet cut off, and nose pulled back off the snout and skull to show the the teeth.  Apparently one butchers a dog at approximately one year of age, and yellow dogs are considered the best. It is considered a very macho thing to eat dog. I'm usually game to at least try most things once; dog will never make that list.

After a lovely rest and acclimatization to Vietnam, Tamara and I were ready to go explore. Tam had also been struggling with a very nasty cold, so a few days of taking it easy and visiting with her friends was really needed for her to get back to health.

Halong Bay Islands

We next jumped on a bus to Halong Bay on the Northern coast. We boarded the "Halong Bay  Party Boat", which is a 3 levels"junk" boat that quietly floats through the ocean outside of Halong. We had at the advice of friends of my younger sister booked a 2night, 3 day cruise through the islands. just off the coast of Halong Bay is a random collection of just under 2,000 small islands that have been marked as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Jutting limestone island abruptly rise out of the ocean with sharp craggy spires. It appears like a crayons was given to a small child and told to draw islands.  Few have beaches or any way to land as they rise to sharply out of the water. Covered with lush plants that have found seed within a crack, and the roots now drape down the side of the rock, following cracks within the rock, and appear like rope beckoning you to grip hold and try to scale to the mountain top. most are small and only inhabited by birds and monkeys, a few are large enough to allow for locals to have small villages on, or have beautiful golden sand beaches to entice tourists., and small resorts.

Cat Bà is the largest inhabited island with a few harbors, a large town filled with hotels and restuaurants, and a National Park. 

Tam and I boarded our "junk", and checked into our room for the night. The room was great w

ith 2 windows opening to the ocean, two beds and out own private bathroom with a shower. 

Floating Fishing Village

We began to quietly cruise through the maze of islands, floating past local fishermen and a floating village of house built upon floating docks which makes up a few of the small floating fishing villages. 

The area is absolutely breath taking and although the weather that day was overcast and cloudy it added to the mysterious  landscape. 

The Party boat was a fun atmosphere and although originally worried it would be full of loud 18 year olds instead we found people close to our own age and e made fast friends with our ship-mates.

Our Hotel on Monkey Island and the surrounding islands

Tamara on the "trail" over the island 

The next day we transferred to Monkey Island, a small island just outside of Cat Bà Island to stay in a bungalow on an amazing golden sand beach, surrounded by the lush jungle. Tam and I surprisingly found ourselves  in our own private bungalow. We hadhad some issues with our originally booking, and had changed our plans suddenly while on the boat. We had no idea what to expect and were astounded by what $67 bought us. The tour also provides all our meals and we have feasted upon fresh fruit and vegetables and fantastic food. We hiked to the top of the island to overlook the surrounding water and islands, and a hike over top of another mountain brought us to the other side of the island where small long tail monkeys live.

 The hike was more like rock climbing and scrambling though a "trail", the sharp jagged rocks were a broken ankle waiting to happen. Happily we made it across and back with minor scrapes.  The rest do the day was spent soaking up the warm sun that made its first appearance since our time here in Vietnam. Tam and I happily found a recliner in the sand and sipped on Hanoi beer while enjoying a few vacation type hours on our tour through Vietnam.  Today is a day of traveling, taking 3 boats, 2 busses, taxis and trains all in 24 hours to arrive in Sapa, which is in the far north of the country near the border with China.

We are loving Vietnam. Sad to hear those of you in Calgary are dealings with snow storms, I'll put on an extra layer of sunscreen for you today.

Sunset from Monkey Island in Halong Bay